中国人服饰变迁史：中国历朝历代服饰图

修仙了，中国历朝历代服饰大全

原始服饰

1.商周贵族服饰

这个时期的织物颜色，以暖色为多，尤其以黄红为主，间有棕色和褐色。以朱砂和石黄制成的红黄二色，比其他颜色更鲜艳，渗透力也较强，所以经久不变并一直保存至今。

商周时期的染织方法往往染绘并用，尤其是红、黄等正色，常在织物织好之后，再用画笔添绘。

商朝男女服饰

周朝男女服饰

周代服饰大致沿袭商代服制，只是略有变化。衣服的样式比商代略宽松。衣袖有大小两式，领子通用矩领。

这个时期还没有扭扣，一般在腰间系带，有的在带上挂玉制饰物。当时的腰带主要有两种：一种以丝织物制成，叫“大带”或“绅带”；另一种以皮革制成，叫“革带”。

周朝冕服

周朝玄端

秦汉男女服饰

先秦时期，衣着以深衣为主直裾和曲裾不仅是男式服饰，也是女式服饰常见类型。襦裙之类也是有的。

秦汉时期的男子服装，以袍为贵。袍服一直被当作礼服。它们基本样式，以大袖为多，袖口有明显的收敛，领、袖都饰有花边。袍服的领子以袒领为主，大多裁成鸡心式，穿时露出内衣。袍服下摆，常打一排密裥，有的还裁制成月牙弯曲状。

汉代的男子的服装样式，大致分为曲裾、直裾两种。

曲裾，即为战国时期流行的深衣。汉代仍然沿用，但多见于西汉早期。到东汉，男子穿深衣者已经少见，一般多为直裾之衣，但并不能作为正式礼服。

秦汉妇女的曲裾深衣

曲裾深衣也是女服中最为常见的一种服式。这种服装通身紧窄，长可曳地，下摆一般呈喇叭状，行不露足。衣袖有宽窄两式，袖口大多镶边。衣领部分很有特色，通常用交领，领口很低，以便露出里衣。如穿几件衣服，每层领子必露于外，最多的达三层以上，时称“三重衣”。

秦汉冕冠

魏晋时期，衣着普遍较大而宽松

南北朝时期：北朝地区

隋朝男女服饰

襦裙和披帛

襦裙是隋唐妇女的主要服式。在隋代及初唐时期，妇女的短襦都用小袖，下着紧身长裙，裙腰高系，一般都在腰部以上，有的甚至系在腋下，并以丝带系扎，给人一种俏丽修长的感觉。

披帛，又称“画帛”，通常一轻薄的纱罗制成，上面印画图纹。长度一般为二米以上，用时将它披搭在肩上，并盘绕于两臂之间。走起路来，不时飘舞，十分美观。

唐朝服饰

唐代承前继承了周、战国、魏晋时期的风格，融周代服饰图案设计上的严谨、战国时期的舒展、汉代的明快、魏晋的飘逸为一体，又在此基础上更加华贵，使服饰、服饰图案达到了历史上的高峰；唐代的服饰、服饰图案对后代的影响一直沿续到今天。

唐代女服的领子，有圆领、方领、斜领、直领和鸡心领等。短襦长裙的特点是裙腰系得较高，一般都在腰部以上，有的甚至系在腋下，给人一种俏丽修长的感觉。

盛唐以后，女服的样式日趋宽大。到了晚唐，一般妇女服装，袖宽往往四尺以上。

晚唐宽袖对襟衫、长裙、披帛。这是中晚唐之际的贵族礼服，穿着这种礼服，发上还簪有金翠花钿，所以又称“钿钗礼衣”。

女式大袖衫

对襟半臂

褙子

宋朝服饰

宋代的服装，其服色、服式多承袭唐代。只是与传统的溶合做得更好、更自然，给人的感觉是恢复中国的风格。

宋朝时候的服饰宋朝的男装大体上沿袭唐代样式，一般百姓多穿交领或圆领的长袍，做事的时候就把衣服往上塞在腰带上，衣服是黑白两种颜色。

元朝：蒙古统治下的中国

明朝时期。元朝留下的习俗被废除，人们又恢复了原来的习惯。

清朝：满清统治下的中国

民国：北洋政府时期。1927年朱家在广州的禁止女性束胸的运动。人民仍然试图禁止缠足，可惜又失败了。

民国：这个时期，旗袍源于满人女性传统服装，被汉人所接受。

民国南京时期这个时期，衣着变得越来越西洋化，在剪裁上也更加适合偏胖体型，缠足习俗被彻底根除。

旗袍作为人们的日常装束直到六十年代末。

21世纪现代

中国各朝代传统服饰

宋、元、明、清、民国

唐

宋朝服饰并不保守，以半露酥胸为主

元

明

清

民国

FashionTimelineofChineseWomenClothing中国女性服装的演变

Briefintroduce

Chineseclothinghasapproximately5,000yearsofhistorybehindit,butregrettablyIamonlyabletocover2,500yearsinthisfashiontimeline.IbeganwiththeHandynastyasthetermhanfu(meaning:dressofethnicChinesepeople)wascoinedinthatperiod.PleasebearinmindthatthisisonlyageneralizedtimelineofChineseclothingprimarilyfeaturingaristocraticandupper-classethnicHanChinesewomen(theexceptionsareFig.8(dancer)andFig.11(maid,duetothefactIcouldntfindmanypaintingsintheYuanperiod)).

Myresourcesaremainlythebooks:5,000yearsofChineseCostume,ChinaChic:EastMeetsWest,ChangingClothesinChina:Fashion,History,Nation,andHongKongMuseumofHistory.5,000yearsofChineseCostumeisaninvaluableresourceinEnglish(thoughsadlycurrentlyoutofprint),Iwouldhighlyrecommendthisbookifyoucangetyourhandsonit.

HanDynasty:

“IntheHanDynasty,asofold,theone-piecegarmentremainedtheformaldressforwomen.However,itwassomewhatdifferentfromthatoftheWarringStatesPeriod,inthatithadanincreasednumberofcurvesinthefrontandbroadenedlowerhems.Close-fittingatthewaist,itwasalwaystiedwithasilkgirdle.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.32)

WeiandJindynasties:

“Onthewhole,thecostumesoftheWeiandJinperiodstillfollowedthepatternsofQinandHan.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.54)

“FromthecostumeswornbythebenefactorsintheDunhuangmuralsandthecostumesofthepotteryfigurinesunearthedinLouyang,itcanbeseenthatwomenscostumesintheperiodofWeiandJinweregenerallylargeandloose.Theuppergarmentopenedatthefrontandwastiedatthewaist.Thesleeveswerebroadandfringedatthecuffswithdecorativebordersofadifferentcolour.Theskirthadspacedcolouredstripesandwastiedwithawhitesilkbandatthewaist.Therewasalsoanapronbetweentheuppergarmentandskirtforthepurposeoffasteningthewaist.Apartfromwearingamulti-colouredskirt,womenalsoworeotherkindssuchasthecrimsongauze-coveredskirt,thered-bluestripedgauzedoubleskirt,andthebarrel-shapedredgauzeskirt.Manyofthesestylesarementionedinhistoricalrecords.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.65)

SouthernandNorthernDynasties:

“DuringtheWei,JinandtheSouthernandNorthernDynasties,thoughmennolongerworethetraditionalone-piecegarment,somewomencontinuedtodoso.However,thestylewasquitedifferentfromthatseenintheHanDynasty.Typicallythewomensdresswasdecoratedwithxianandshao.Thelatterreferstopiecesofsilkclothsewnontothelowerhemofthedress,whichwerewideatthetopandnarrowatthebottom,sothattriangleswereformedoverlappingeachother.Xianreferstosomerelativelylongribbonswhichextendedfromtheshort-cutskirt.Whilethewearerwaswalking,theselengthyribbonsmadethesharpcornersnthelowerhemwavelikeaflyingswallow,hencetheChinesephrase‘beautifulribbonsandflyingswallowtail.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.62)

“DuringtheSouthernandNorthernDynasties,costumesunderwentfurtherchangesinstyle.Thelongflyingribbonswerenolongerseenandtheswallowtailedcornersbecameenlarged.Asaresulttheflyingribbonsandswallowtailedcornerswerecombinedintoone.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.62)

SuiDynasty:

“DuringtheperiodoftheSuiandearlyTang,ashortjacketwithtightsleeveswasworninconjunctionwithatightlongskirtwhosewaistwasfastenedalmosttothearmpitswithasilkribbon.Intheensuingcentury,thestyleofthiscostumeremainedbasicallythesame,exceptforsomeminorchangessuchaslettingoutthejacketand/oritssleeves.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.88)

TangDynasty:

“TheTangDynastywasthemostprosperousperiodinChinasfeudalsociety.Changan(nowXian,ShananxiProvince),thecapital,wasthepolitical,economicandculturalcentreofthenation.[…]ResidentsinChanganincludedpeopleofsuchnationalitiesasHuihe(Uygur,)Tubo(Tibetan),andNanzhao(Yi),andevenJapanese,Xinluo(Korean),PersianandArabian.Meanwhile,peoplefrequentlytravelledtoandfrobetweencountrieslikeVietnam,IndiaandtheEastRomanEmpireandChangan,thusspreadingChineseculturetootherpartsoftheworld.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.76)

“…allthenationalminoritiesandforeignenvoyswhothrongedthestreetsofChanganalsocontributedsomethingoftheirownculturetotheTang.Consequently,paintings,carvings,musicanddancesoftheTangabsorbedsomethingofforeignskillsandstyles.TheTanggovernmentadoptedthepolicyoftakingineveryexoticformwhetherorhatsorclothing,sothatTangcostumesbecameincreasinglypicturesqueandbeautiful.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.88)

“WomenoftheTangDynastypaidparticularattentiontofacialappearance,andtheapplicationofpowderorevenrougewascommonpractice.Somewomensforeheadswerepainteddarkyellowandthedai(akindofdarkbluepigment)wasusedtopainttheireyebrowsintodifferentshapesthatwerecalleddaimei(paintedeyebrows)ingeneral.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.89)

“IntheyearsofTianbaoduringEmperorXuanzongsreign,womenusedtowearmenscostumes.Thiswasnotonlyafashionamongcommoners,butalsoforatimeitspreadtotheimperialcourtandbecamecustomaryforwomenofhighbirth.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.89)

SongDynasty

“ThehairstyleofthewomenoftheSongDynastystillfollowedthefashionofthelaterperiodoftheTangDynasty,thehighbunbeingthefavouredstyle.Womensbunswereoftenmorethanafootinheight.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.107)

“Womensuppergarmentsconsistedmainlyofcoat,blouse,loose-sleeveddress,over-dress,short-sleevedjacketandvest.Thelowergarmentwasmostlyaskirt.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.107)

“WomenintheSongDynastyseldomworeboots,sincebindingthefeethadbecomefashionable.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.107)

“Althoughhistoriansdonotknowexactlyhoworwhyfootbindingbegan,itwasapparentlyinitiallyassociatedwithdancersattheimperialcourtandprofessionalfemaleentertainersinthecapital.DuringtheSongdynasty(960-1279)thepracticespreadfromthepalaceandentertainmentquartersintothehomesoftheelite.‘Bythethirteenthcentury,archeologicalevidenceshowsclearlythatfoot-bindingwaspracticedamongthedaughtersandwivesofofficials,reportsPatriciaBuckleyEbrey[…]Overthecourseofthenextfewcenturiesfootbindingbecameincreasinglycommonamonggentryfamilies,andthepracticeeventuallypenetratedthemassoftheChinesepeople.”(ChineseChic:EastMeetsWest,pg.37-38)

YuanDynasty:

“Hanwomencontinuedtowearthejacketandskirt.However,thechoiceofdarkershadesandbuttoningontheleftshowedMongolianinfluence.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.131)

“AftertheMongolssettleddownintheCentralPlains,MongoliancustomsandcostumesalsohadtheirinfluenceonthoseoftheHanpeople.WhileremainingthemaincostumeforHanwomen,thejacketandskirthaddeviatedgreatlyinstylefromthoseoftheTangandSongperiods.Tight-fittinggarmentsgavewaytobig,looseones;andcollar,sleevesandskirtbecamestraight.Inaddition,lightermoreserenecoloursgainedpreference.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.142)

MingDynasty:

“TheclothingforwomenintheMingDynastyconsistedmainlyofgowns,coats,rosycapes,over-dresseswithorwithoutsleeves,andskirts.ThesestyleswereimitationsofonesfirstseenintheTangandSongDynasties.However,theopeningswereontheright-handside,accordingtotheHanDynastyconvention.”((5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.147)

“Theformaldressforcommonerscouldonlybemadeofcoarsepurplecloth,andnogoldembroiderywasallowed.Gownscouldonlyinsuchlightcoloursaspurple,greenandpink;andinnocaseshouldcrimson,reddishblueoryellowbeused.Theseregulationswereobservedforoveradecade,anditwasnotuntilthe14thyearofHongWuthatminorchangesweremade.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.147)

QingDynasty

WhenChinafellunderManchurianrule,ChinesemenwereforcedtoadoptManchuriancustoms.Asasignofsubmission,thenewgovernmentmadeadecreethatmenmustshavetheirheadandweartheManchurianqueueorlosetheirheads.Manychoosethelatter.

Ontheotherhand,ChinesewomenwerenotpressuredtoadoptManchurianclothingandfashions.“Women,ingeneral,woreskirtsastheirlowergarments,andredskirtswereforwomenofposition.Atfirst,therewerestillthe“phoenix-tail”skirtandthe“moonlight”skirtandothersfromtheMingtradition.Howeverthestylesevolvedwiththepassageoftime:someskirtswereadornedwithribbonsthatfloatedintheairwhenonewalked;somehadlittlebellsfastenedunderthem:othershadtheirloweredgeembroideredwithwavydesigns.Asthedynastydrewtoanend,thewearingoftrousersbecamethefashionamongcommonerwomen.Thereweretrouserswithfullcrotchesandovertrousers,bothmadeofsilkembroideredwithpatters.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.173)

TheManchuriansattemptedseveraltimestoeradicatethepracticeoffoot-binding,butwerelargelyunsuccessful.Manchurianwomenadmiredthegaitofboundwomenbutwereeffectivelybannedfrompracticingfood-binding.Hence,a“flowerpotshoe”latercameintocreationanditalloweditswearerthesameunsteadygaitbutwithoutanyneedforfoot-binding.

QingDynasty

RepublicEra

“EversincetheTangDynasty,thedesignofChinesewomenscostumeshadkepttothesamestraightstyle:flatandstraightlinesforthechest,shouldersandhips,withfewcurvesvisible;anditwasnotuntilthe1920sthatChinesewomencametoappreciate‘thebeautyofcurves,andtopayattentiontofigurewhencuttingandmakingupdresses,insteadofadheringtothetraditionalstyle.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.214)

“ThemostpopularitemofaChinesewomanswardrobeinmoderntimeswastheqipao.OriginallthedressoftheManchus,itwasadoptedbyHanwomeninthe1920s.Modificationsandimprovementswerethenmadesothatforatime,itbecamethemostfashionableformofdressforwomeninChina.

Twomainfactorsaccountforwomensgeneralpreferencefortheqipao:first,itwaseconomicalandconvenienttowear.”(5,000yearsofChineseCostume,pg.214-215)

WomentraditionallyboundtheirbreastsintheMingandQingdynastieswithtightfittingvestsandcontinuedtodosointheearly20thcentury.

“Thevestswerecalledxiaomajia‘littlevestorxiaoshan‘littleshirt”“usedbyChinesewomenasunderclothingfortheupperpartofthebody.”(ChangingClothesinChina:Fashion,History,Nation:Finnanepg162)“Doudu[is]asortofapronfortheupperbody[…]informertimesthedouduhadbeenwornbyeveryone,oldandyoung,maleandfemale.Theyoungworered,themiddle-agedworewhiteorgrey-green,theelderlyworeblack.Alittlepocketsewnintothetopwasusedbyadultstosecretethemmoneyandbychildrentheirsweets.Whenagirlgotengaged,shewouldshowoffherembroideryskillsbysendinganelaboratelyworkeddoudutoherfiancé,decoratedwithbatsforgoodforturneandpomegranates,symbolizingmanysons.”(ChangingClothesinChina:Fashion,History,Nation:Finnanepg162)

Abanonboundbreastsbeganin1927,inwhichthegovernmentstartedadvocatingforthe“NaturalBreastMovement”.Despitethis,boundbreastsstillwidelycontinuedintothe1930s.Thegovernmentalsobannedearringsasitfellunderthecriteriaofdeformingthenaturalbody.The1930salsosawtheintroductionofthewestern/FrenchbracometoShanghai.

“Thelittlevestwasdesignedtoconstrainthebreastsandstreamlinethebody.Suchagarmentwasnecessarytolookcommeilfautaround1908,when(asJ.DyerBallobserved):‘fashiondecreedthatjacketsshouldfittight,thoughnotyieldingtothecontoursofthefigure,exceptintheslightestdegree,assuchanexposureofthebodywouldbeconsideredimmodest.Itbecamenecessaryagaininthemid-twenties,whenthejacket-blouseagarmentcutonroundedlines–begantogivewaytotheqipao.Atthisstage,dartswerenotusedtotailorthebodiceorupperpartoftheqipao,norwouldtheybetillthemid-fifties.Themostthatcouldbedonebywayoffurtherfittingtheqipaotothebosomwastostretchthematerialattherightplacesthroughironing.Underthesecircumstances,breast-bindingmusthavemadethetailorstaskeasier.”(Finnane163,ChangingClothesinChina:Fashion,History,Nation)

Successfuleradicationofboundfeetwouldnotcomeuntilthe1949whenthePeoplesRepublicofChinacameintopower.

RepublicEraand21stcentury

1950s-1960s

UnderthePeoplesRepublicofChina,veryfewmainlandwomenworethecheongsam,saveforceremonialattire.Clothingbecamede-sexualizedformainlanders.

ItwastheflipsideinHongKong,asthecheongsamcontinueditsfunctionaseverydaywearwhichlasteduntilthelate1960s.Thecheongsaminthe1950sand1960sbecameeventighterfittingtofurtheraccentuatefemininecurves.Westernclothingbecamethedefaultafterthelate1960s,thoughthecheongsamcontinuedtosurviveasuniformsforstudents(whodonnedalooserandandrogynousversion),waitresses,brides,andbeautycontestants.

21stcentury

Designerstodayarecreatingnewformsoftheqipao/cheongsam.Thefishtailappearstobeacurrentpopulartrend.